The Great Sandwich Romance
Nosh Delicatessen brings the East Coast to San Diego.BY WHITNEY BUTLER After a career in the city that put delis like Carnegie and Katz on the culinary map, the late James Beard—food writer and respected chef—wisely characterized our relationship to the sandwich: “Too few people understand a really good sandwich.” Many food writers have postulated that the American sandwich is one of the greatest romances known to our modern taste buds. From bread to spread, toppings and beyond, the cold cuts of yore have met insatiable appetites with innovation and grand portions. But in our world of one-lunch stands, where can true sandwich romance be found? The answer is the breezy community of Encinitas, where Nosh Delicatessen opened in September with the tenacity one might expect from a classically inspired deli. The rules are simple: It’s all about the meat. On the west wall of the eatery, a large black-and-white mural of the New York skyline gestures to a past familiar and asks that age-old question: What’s for lunch?
Originally appeared in print February 2013.READ COMPLETE PRINT VERSION